Yesterday I attended a party at the Canadian Centre of Architecture. I met several of my classmates there. All of Montreal's youngest and beautifullest were out in force, enjoying the free wine and music. I found it quite remarakable that a crowd primarily composed of 20-25 year olds were given almost free rein over a cultural gem like the CCA, whilst being plyed with unlimited booze between 8 and 10pm. All in the name of art. Good heavens.
People in Montreal have struck me, to this point, as being extraordinarily polite, civilized, friendly and, well, mature. I can't imagine the aforementioned event being staged in Edmonton. Art shows happen in Edmonton. Sure. Booze is served. Sure. Sometimes for free. But the CCA had ADVERTISED free booze far and wide and literally hundreds of people showed up. And it did not turn into a shit show.
What is incredibly refreshing about Montreal is the relative lack of machismo among the male citizens of the city. I've realized that living in Edmonton has left me with the vestiges of the "fear culture" that holds sway there. Especially in more recent years, Edmontonians have become extraordinarily fearful and hostile towards one another. Encounters with strangers are strained, awkward affairs. People generally avoid casual encounters on the street. Men exude aggression as they swagger down Whyte Avenue on a sunny afternoon.
The vibe here is just so relaxed by comparison. Even homeless people seem integrated into the tolerant and pleasant life of the street. The other day, I saw a rather grimy homeless fellow sitting on a step on la rue Saint Denis. Along came a beautiful young blond woman and sat down next to him and struck up a conversation. As long as I've lived, I've never seen that sort of thing happen in any other city. My friends up on Mont Royal even invited a homeless person in to spend the night with them the other day. People simply don't have the fear of the homeless -- or any other kind of "other" -- in Montreal.
This is terrible to confess, but the more I fall in love with Montreal, the more I fall out of love with Edmonton (was I ever in love? No, I think I decided in the last post that I never was). I had sensed for years that people in big cities didn't have to behave in the fashion that I saw displayed around me. But sometimes I doubted myself. I thought, "I'm looking for a better way that simply doesn't exist."
But it does exist. In fact, I think Edmonton is the exception to the norm. I don't see the kind of routine nastiness that Edmontonians relish on display in towns such as, let's say, Vancouver.
What has happened in Edmonton? I just don't get it. Why have people fallen so in love with trucks, strip malls, ugliness, fighting, being stupid? Surely, in their private hearts, people don't enjoy this kind of life. Surely, the constant fear and the pressure to conform and be aggressive and macho and guarded takes its toll?
This weekend, my best friend leaves Edmonton. The numbers are ever-thinning.
I am fascinated to find out what Edmonton will be like in five to ten years. As much as I dislike the place, it's impossible for me to stop caring.
Saturday, September 29, 2007
Sunday, September 16, 2007
Another Week in Montreal
There have been several social occasions this weekend that I have avoided. I feel myself instinctively needing a “breather.” Adjusting to a new home is fun, but one is so filled with doubts and dreams and new thoughts that it’s useful to slow down and take stock of them.
One thing is very apparent. I love Montreal. I have realized that a relationship with a city is a bit like a relationship with a life partner. I judged Edmonton too harshly. Why? Because Edmonton was not right for me. It’s a lot like when you know a relationship is going to fail, you start seeing almost all the negative aspects of a person and find it hard to see the good.
So there. I owe Edmonton an apology. It wasn’t you. It was me.
Having said that, the more I realize that Montreal is RIGHT for me, the more I realize how very WRONG Edmonton was for me. When I walk around Montreal, I get this feeling of, “Where have you been all my life?”
One of Edmonton’s – indeed Alberta’s – biggest selling points is the vast, beautiful sky. Yes, it’s awfully impressive. It matches the vastness of the prairie. Two massive straight lines against which the achievements of humans appear rather puny.
There is nothing to match that sky in Montreal. Even on a sunny day, like today, the sky can’t match Alberta’s. Often, the clouds press in, the buildings loom over, and you feel smothered by all the things jostling for your attention.
The fact is, I like that. I do not revel in the open spaces. I like crowded spaces. Spaces with lots of levels. I really enjoy Montreal’s undulations – even the multi-layered freeways. I like the confusion and the great mess of it all. It feels natural and somehow, correct.
I forgive all of Montreal’s flaws, the same way, when you truly love someone, you do so in spite of the flaws. (It would be hypocritical not to. We’re all flawed.) So for example, when Montreal’s metro breaks down (which is surprisingly often), I just shrug my shoulders and say, with only mild annoyance, “C’est la vie.” Whereas in Edmonton, this sort of thing would have infuriated me.
So when I say I love Montreal, I mean that I love her even though there is a lot that is bland, ugly, clumsy, poorly planned and irritating. Because Montreal is also architecturally stunning, effortlessly beautiful, glamorously gritty, delightfully seedy, and, above all, sexy. There is no better word to sum her all up.
Today I walked from my home in Verdun and north-eastwards to Concordia’s downtown campus. I passed through nearly every kind of ugly and beautiful and in between that Montreal has to offer. Verdun is not considered one of Montreal’s prized neighbourhoods. Indeed, among some, it has a pretty bad reputation. But just up the road, on l’avenue de l’eglise, I found a huge church that I’d never seen before.
Then, I walked into the industrial zone, across which the Canal Lachine cuts its way with sparkling charm.
I passed the Atwater Market and into the St. Henri neighbourhood, a lot of it poor, but much of it picturesque.
I finally arrived at the downtown metro station which I pass through almost every day.
When I walk around Montreal, the city lifts my spirits. The continual surprises work on my emotional state and by the time I get to my destination, I feel like I’ve had an experience. There is even a sort of narrative to the walks.
All this, and I haven’t even mentioned how much nicer people are generally in Montreal. That is a post for another day!
The challenge this year is finding a way that I can stay here forever.
One thing is very apparent. I love Montreal. I have realized that a relationship with a city is a bit like a relationship with a life partner. I judged Edmonton too harshly. Why? Because Edmonton was not right for me. It’s a lot like when you know a relationship is going to fail, you start seeing almost all the negative aspects of a person and find it hard to see the good.
So there. I owe Edmonton an apology. It wasn’t you. It was me.
Having said that, the more I realize that Montreal is RIGHT for me, the more I realize how very WRONG Edmonton was for me. When I walk around Montreal, I get this feeling of, “Where have you been all my life?”
One of Edmonton’s – indeed Alberta’s – biggest selling points is the vast, beautiful sky. Yes, it’s awfully impressive. It matches the vastness of the prairie. Two massive straight lines against which the achievements of humans appear rather puny.
There is nothing to match that sky in Montreal. Even on a sunny day, like today, the sky can’t match Alberta’s. Often, the clouds press in, the buildings loom over, and you feel smothered by all the things jostling for your attention.
The fact is, I like that. I do not revel in the open spaces. I like crowded spaces. Spaces with lots of levels. I really enjoy Montreal’s undulations – even the multi-layered freeways. I like the confusion and the great mess of it all. It feels natural and somehow, correct.
I forgive all of Montreal’s flaws, the same way, when you truly love someone, you do so in spite of the flaws. (It would be hypocritical not to. We’re all flawed.) So for example, when Montreal’s metro breaks down (which is surprisingly often), I just shrug my shoulders and say, with only mild annoyance, “C’est la vie.” Whereas in Edmonton, this sort of thing would have infuriated me.
So when I say I love Montreal, I mean that I love her even though there is a lot that is bland, ugly, clumsy, poorly planned and irritating. Because Montreal is also architecturally stunning, effortlessly beautiful, glamorously gritty, delightfully seedy, and, above all, sexy. There is no better word to sum her all up.
Today I walked from my home in Verdun and north-eastwards to Concordia’s downtown campus. I passed through nearly every kind of ugly and beautiful and in between that Montreal has to offer. Verdun is not considered one of Montreal’s prized neighbourhoods. Indeed, among some, it has a pretty bad reputation. But just up the road, on l’avenue de l’eglise, I found a huge church that I’d never seen before.
Then, I walked into the industrial zone, across which the Canal Lachine cuts its way with sparkling charm.
I passed the Atwater Market and into the St. Henri neighbourhood, a lot of it poor, but much of it picturesque.
I finally arrived at the downtown metro station which I pass through almost every day.
When I walk around Montreal, the city lifts my spirits. The continual surprises work on my emotional state and by the time I get to my destination, I feel like I’ve had an experience. There is even a sort of narrative to the walks.
All this, and I haven’t even mentioned how much nicer people are generally in Montreal. That is a post for another day!
The challenge this year is finding a way that I can stay here forever.
Friday, September 7, 2007
Montreal and Montpellier
What do Montreal and Montpellier, France, have in common besides their first four letters ? Well, from my scant acquaintance with each, both have very lively centres and lots of beautiful young people walking around, keeping things vibrant and dynamic. Montpellier is near the Mediterranean and numbers about 200,000 people. Montreal is on the Saint Lawrence and numbers close to 4 million. Both have decent public transit. Montreal’s Metro, current infrastructure problems notwithstanding, efficiently covers a large area of the city and is fast and clean. There are also buses and suburban commuter trains. Montpellier for its part has trams and buses.
When I visited Montpellier this summer, I felt like I was going to have a nervous breakdown because I was foolish enough to drive a car into the town centre. I have since discovered that Montpellier is doing everything possible to deter this. Their plans are working. So much of Montpellier’s centre is made up of pedestrian-only streets, one-way streets, dead ends, and tramway-dedicated streets, that to drive in a car is sheer lunacy. I am not exaggerating when I say that it took over two hours for me to simply find a way to get to the hotel where Monika and I were staying. We circled around it and around it, but the direct path to its door seemed unreachable. Even when we eventually did find the hotel, we found that there was no parking, so we had to retrace our steps to the Place de la Comedie, find underground parking (at a cost of $30 per night) and walk the rest of the way on foot.
The tone of this might sound a bit like a complaint. It isn’t. I am in complete admiration of what Montpellier has done. Indeed, Montreal isn’t even that pedestrian friendly.
For anyone who hasn’t driven in an old European city, It’s hard to describe just how utterly different it is from driving in, say, Edmonton, Alberta. The skill level required just to park and stay alive is vastly higher. If Edmonton drivers tried out half their crazy shit in Montpellier, they would be dead or in jail. Simply put, I think most North American cities have made driving in town too easy. Driving is not supposed to be a relaxing, pleasant experience – unless you’re out in the country, the part of the world where the motorized vehicle truly comes into its own. In cities, driving should be so stressful and difficult that you only do it if absolutely necessary.
Here is Montpellier’s tramway – a modern marvel in the historic town centre.
When I visited Montpellier this summer, I felt like I was going to have a nervous breakdown because I was foolish enough to drive a car into the town centre. I have since discovered that Montpellier is doing everything possible to deter this. Their plans are working. So much of Montpellier’s centre is made up of pedestrian-only streets, one-way streets, dead ends, and tramway-dedicated streets, that to drive in a car is sheer lunacy. I am not exaggerating when I say that it took over two hours for me to simply find a way to get to the hotel where Monika and I were staying. We circled around it and around it, but the direct path to its door seemed unreachable. Even when we eventually did find the hotel, we found that there was no parking, so we had to retrace our steps to the Place de la Comedie, find underground parking (at a cost of $30 per night) and walk the rest of the way on foot.
The tone of this might sound a bit like a complaint. It isn’t. I am in complete admiration of what Montpellier has done. Indeed, Montreal isn’t even that pedestrian friendly.
For anyone who hasn’t driven in an old European city, It’s hard to describe just how utterly different it is from driving in, say, Edmonton, Alberta. The skill level required just to park and stay alive is vastly higher. If Edmonton drivers tried out half their crazy shit in Montpellier, they would be dead or in jail. Simply put, I think most North American cities have made driving in town too easy. Driving is not supposed to be a relaxing, pleasant experience – unless you’re out in the country, the part of the world where the motorized vehicle truly comes into its own. In cities, driving should be so stressful and difficult that you only do it if absolutely necessary.
Here is Montpellier’s tramway – a modern marvel in the historic town centre.
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